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Roses for your Valentine

Valentine’s day and roses. What a perfect combination.

Sea of Roses 

I love roses. And I had wanted to learn to paint roses from the very first  decorative painting class I joined. I think I made my teacher laugh!

When I started teaching, I only taught roses as a second class…but for a couple of enthusiastic students, I broke the rules and taught them roses as their first project!

There are so many roses to learn. There are stroke roses. Folk art roses. Free hand roses. Patterned roses. Realistic roses. There are so many ways to paint them. Zhostovo roses. Bavarian multi-loaded roses. Hindeloopen roses. Rosemaled roses.

And of course – what everyone must remember – everyone’s roses are different. No matter how and what is taught, eventually your roses will be YOUR roses. It becomes your trademark. The more you paint it, the more you will develop YOUR rose.

Have a great Valentine’s Day.

Red roses for my Valentine

Class Calendar 2010

I decided to post this “Class Calendar” because this is how it is in Kuwait – everyone travels, including me. So with the calendar, at least you will know when classes are available and can book in advance. Lets not let the year slip by without any meaningful painting OK?

Painting a zhostovo bouquet

All classes are  from 10am to 1pm on each day.

Please bookmark this page as I will keep updating with events like workshops, clinics and courses.

MONTH Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday
February 15
(Weekly advanced class – full)
16 17
(Varnishing technique for Taster Class)
18
  22
(Weekly advanced class – full)
23
(Weekly beginner class – full)
   
         
March   2
(Weekly beginner class – full)
3 4
  8 9
(Weekly beginner class – full)
10 11
  15 16 17 18
         
April 19 20 21 22
  26 27 28 29
         
May 3 4 5 6
  10 11 12 13
  17 18 19 20
  24 25 26 27
         
June 28 29 30  
         
July       1
  5 6 7 8
  12 13 14 15
  19 20 21 22
  26 27 28 29
         
August 2 3 4 5
  9 10 11 12
  16 17 18 19
         
September 27 28 29 30
         
October 4 5 6 7
  11 12 13 14
  18 19 20 21
  25 26 27 28
         
November 1 2 3 4
         
December 13 14 15 16
  20 21 22 23
  27 28 29 30

If you don’t know what to paint take a look at some of the projects available on the studio website.

Painting on a canvas

Sometime back, I developed a penchant for painting on canvas instead of the usual MDF or wood items I had been used to.

It all started one day when I realised that I didn’t have time to basecoat an MDF item to paint a new project in class with my students. I thought of painting on paper but I discovered canvas boards among my hoard of “paintable” items and that became the perfect surface!

Since then, I didn’t have any qualms about taking any decorative painting design and painting it on a canvas board or stretched canvas.

Roses on bin

For example, I had painted this MDF bin with a roses design and much later painted the same thing on a rectangular canvas board.

Roses on Canvasboard

I also encourage my students to have a go and some of them actually like it. Its good to paint on traditional surfaces like the canvas, for a change! LOL

Basecoating your canvas for decorative painting is a little different because the canvas surface is not smooth like the MDF or wood surfaces we’re used to. So you will find it quite a challenge to basecoat it with a brush and thick paint straight from the bottle or tube.

But there is an easy way – I use a small roller sponge and extra pressure. Basecoat once, dry with a hairdryer and then basecoat again and voila…its ready to take your decorative painting.

You’ll also finish in half the time because no sanding is required….that should make a lot of painters happy!

Painting your design is not much different once you get the hang of moving your brush around on the basecoated canvas surface. You will always feel the texture of the canvas but all the decorative painting techniques you’re used to will work on the canvas.

No worries. You just have to try it to find out.

So why not have a go?

First Daisies at a Taster Class

The first "Taster Class" of 2010 was a great success. The girls painted the brand new "Girlie Daisies" project on an MDF plaque.

Being first-time painters, they were quite naturally nervous at first but the good thing about painting in a group is that you get to motivate each other and learn from each other.

Taking basecoating seriously..

Basecoating is always taught at your first class – I know it looks easy but trust me, its easy to forget that its one of the most important steps of decorative painting.

To get a good end result, we have to start right. These ladies soon learnt the trick to get their plaques perfectly smooth, ready for painting. Patience, patience, patience. Absolutely no shortcuts or your project will not look like an heirloom!

Concentrating....and PAINTING!

Confidence is important in decorative painting and at the first class its always necessary to develop confidence by practising brush loading and brush control.

OMG I did it! I painted my first daisy...

Once a reasonable level of confidence is attained, we start painting on the project. Of course, its quite natural to be a bit nervous. Its your first time, right? But when you see that first daisy take shape, believe me, its MAGIC….you are painting!

We painted these!

You might find it hard to believe, but everyone gets to finish their project on Day 2 of a Taster Class…these ladies thoroughly enjoyed it and are so proud of their work.

Big smile for the camera…..and CLICK!

Girlie daisies

I painted this very “girlie” daisies project for a “taster” class in Kuwait which will start this week. Its a very simple project which everyone will be able to finish in two sessions of three hours each.

Daisies Plaque - Taster Class

A “taster” class is exactly that – a class to get a taste of decorative painting! In two sessions I will teach everything you need to know to finish this project – starting with basecoating the woodpiece and preparing it to be painted, applying the pattern, a bit about brushes, brush loading, a bit about colours, basic round brush strokes and varnishing.

At the end of two days, of course, everyone takes home their project and try to convince their husbands and their kids that they ACTUALLY painted it! Yes, that’s always the best part…that’s why I always take photos of students painting – that’s the proof they painted it!!! LOL

If you live in Kuwait and would like to attend this or any other taster class, please add a comment and we’ll take it from there! See you soon..

Class dates are:

Tuesday and Wednesday, January 26th and 27th, 2010 – 10am to 1pm
(one place available)

Tuesday and Wednesday, February 2nd and 3rd, 2010 – 10am to 1pm
(3 places available)

Tuesday and Wednesday, February 9th and 10th, 2010 – 10am to 1pm
(4 places available)

Tuesday and Wednesday, February 16th and 17th, 2010 – 10am to 1pm
(4 places available)

The studio is refurnished!

The studio has a new look, with country-style wooden shelves and cupboards which I reclaimed from our study! I think it is more at home in my studio than the study because its all high-tech there and very country here *LOL*

A panoramic photo of the studio

The cupboards I “re-claimed” are L-shaped and fitted just nicely into the corner where I used to have my desk. I always thought the units would be too large for my studio but apparently its not!

Hubby had this great idea of positioning the table diagonally and it actually looks very nice there. Lets hope its also better feng shui? Not that I know too much about feng shui..

A view of the studio with the "new" wooden shelves and cupboards

Of course I had to remove some odd pieces of furniture that were here and after re-arranging my projects in their new home, I have to say the studio looks more alive!

Here’s to great painting days in the “new” studio!

Making your new painting old

Items that you have decorated by painting may actually become family heirlooms and why not, after the love and care you put into painting it, right? It may actually get a chance to look really old like an heirloom should be or, you can actually make it look old, like an heirloom, right now!

One of the most popular techniques decorative painters use to give an item an aged look is crackling.

Crackled pallette with roses

I crackled this wooden palette then painted a roses design over it. You can also use a crackling effect on parts of an item only e.g. the sides of a box or the edges of a plate. You can even crackle the whole project without painting any design if that’s what you want.

The basic steps for crackling are :

  1. Basecoat the surface as you would normally do for a painting project. Let it dry.
  2. Apply an even coat of crackle medium with a large flat brush and let it dry until “tacky” – see what your medium instructions say. It could be 20 to 60 minutes.
  3. Apply the contrasting topcoat of paint – as this paint dries, your cracks will develop and show the basecoat colour.
  4. Leave to dry for 1 – 2 weeks before sanding and varnishing or painting over it.

Depending on how much top coat paint you use and which way or how you apply the paint, you can achieve different looks:

  • Apply a thin layer of paint over the crackle medium – and the result is fine cracks.
  • Apply a thick layer of paint – you get large, bold cracks.
  • If you brush the top coat in one single direction, you will get cracks going horizontally or vertically in that direction.
  • If you brush the top coat using a “slip slap” or criss-cross direction, you will get cracks going in various directions.

If you have never crackled before, you might find it a bit daunting at first because you’ll probably have read that with crackling, sometimes you get what you want, and sometimes, it just doesn’t happen. No matter what you do. Its true that there are so many different variables that affect the outcome of crackling from the paint you use, to the crackling medium, even the humidity around you!

The best thing to do is “play” – practise crackling on different surfaces, using difference mediums, in different environments and develop your experience.

You will find useful tips for crackling here in the Artezan website.

Mastering side loading

Side-loading is a very important decorative painting skill and many of my students still find it a little daunting when a project involves side-loading!

All I can say is – everything is easy if you know how and that applies to panting skills too.

What is side loading?

Side loading is one of the principle methods for applying acrylics. A side loaded brush has paint on only one side for placing graduated colour. This technique is sometimes referred to as floating colour. And indeed, the paint should float on a layer of water in order to dry smoothly. Side loads are used to place shading, highlighting and accent colours within the design. The contrast between light and dark values creates depth in the painting. Like other painting techniques, side loading requires practice to master.

Sharyn Binam, CDA, author of “The Sideload Book”

That’s right. Practise. Practise. Practise. There’s no running away from practise.

Basic side loading involves loading a flat brush with paint on one edge of the brush and water on the other edge. I usually tell my students to use the biggest brush possible for the project. A small brush is more difficult to load….that is until you master the technique. The brushes I use the most for floating are the 1/2” angle or #10 flat. But get a 3/4” angle and save it for floating – you’ll never regret it.

23-Carat Tulips on Desk Box

Side loading was the major technique used in painting this tulips deskbox project. The floating technique was used here to layer the highlights to create depth and the “light within” effect.

The key points for a successful float (other than perfecting the technique of course!) are:

  • a flat or angle brush in PERFECT condition – in other words, like new, with a perfect chisel edge
  • clean water always for dressing the brush
  • a clean wet palette for blending the brush to dress it
  • fresh paint – certainly without lumps. Leftover paint is not advisable
  • less is better – use very little paint to load your brush

Start by dampening the brush in clean water. Blot the excess by touching the brush only once on each side on a folded paper towel. Pick up a small amount of paint with one corner of the brush. Hold the brush vertically and blend the paint into the brush by pulling a short strip on your palette towards you. This is called the “blending strip” and it shouldn’t be more than 1”. Maintain the brush position and push and pull the brush back and forth so that you spread the paint across the brush and create the dark-to-light gradation.

A good side-loaded brush will have colour on one side diminishing gradually to nothing on the other side.

If the colour has travelled completely to the other side you will have a strip colour when you paint the float. When that happens you must wash the brush and dress it all over again.

Batik-inspired on wood

What do you think I did after my taster class in batik painting in Malaysia? I tried to re-create the batik experience on wood of course – without the wax.

I found a couple of open tea boxes and decided on a simple design inspired by a batik outfit I love so much until this day.

I and imitated the batik look……and viola! I thought it looked pretty good.  Green and purple Batik tea-box

On the long ends of the box I painted a design which in traditional batik is called the kepala or “head”. The conical shape is inspired by the pucuk rebung or bamboo shoots.

 Green and purple Batik tea-box - another view  

I was really enjoying the experience that I painted another one in an equally bright combination of colours: pink and blue!

Blue and pink Batik tea-box

Blue and pink Batik tea-box - another view

This is a very simple project which a beginner decorative painter will be able to finish in an afternoon.

Batik painting – Malaysian folk art

Originally an Indonesian craft, batik has made itself at home in Malaysia.  As a Malaysian, of course, I will say that Malaysian Batik is the best in the world!

There are four ways of creating batik today: block-printing, drawn freestyle, silk-screened, or tie-dyed. While batik is produced and available pretty much anywhere in Malaysia, the best batik are those painstakingly hand-drawn by artisans in its true home in Malaysia – in the state of Kelantan.

Batik is traditionally created on cotton and silk. When hand-drawn, the design is created using a canting filled with liquid wax.

Canting

The fabric is then dyed with the first colour. The wax is then melted away by boiling the fabric in water and a second part of the design is drawn in.  After this repeated process, an intricate and beautifully coloured design is produced.

While in Malaysia on one of my trips back, I took a taster class in batik painting on silk and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Pink Hibiscus Batik on Silk Purple Orchid Batik on Silk

I can’t imagine painting metres of silk fabric but the 2 small projects that I painted was enough for me to appreciate the beauty and art of batik!

Next….batik on wood!

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